Maria Comparetto (make-up) and Sophie Harris Greenslade (nails) talk the look for the Daks Show London Fashion Week February 14th 2014.
See the full article here.
‘Palais de Tokyo’
‘ONE NIGHT ONLY’
Paris 21st January 2014
9.17am on the Eurostar and a beautiful bright morning, Paris bound to work with Linda Cantello on ‘One Night Only’ for Giorgio Armani. The call time was 3.30pm so I had plenty of time…..
9.40am Ebbsfleet International :the train has a technical fault we have to go back to Kings Cross St Pancreas… hmmmm
10.30 am leave London once again…sun still shining…
2:40pm Finally get to Paris. Go straight to the show!
Matisse style abstract sketches all around of the make-up by Linda; a charcoal smokey eye.
Even though the look seems quite simple there is lots of layering of products to achieve a very nomadic, mysterious, moorish feel to the makeup
Here’s the step by step.
Step 1: Skin :
- BB cream, high precision or maestro foundation. No powder.
Step 2: Eyes:
- Black pencil on lash line in inner corner of the eye and the outer corner of the eye.
- Blend to a shadow cover with new Armani ‘eye lacquer’ in a slurry grey.
- Layer with a darker shade.
- Keeping the shape, sweep outward and not upward toward the ear.
- Take the colour to the lower lashes but only on the outer corner followed by a thin smudged liquid line.
- Curl lashes and apply mascara on top (eyes to kill).
- Lots of Armani No. 4 Kohl Pencil top and bottom.
Step 3: Brows:
- Keeping them angular but not too heavy, shade in the brows and sweep out to complement the shadow
Step 4: Cheeks:
- Use a taupe Armani pencil to sculpt the cheek bone and blend with warm fingers.
Step 5: Finish:
- A light wash of base on the lip then powder.
The models stand in line as Anna Wintour is taken back stage to take a close look at the gowns; embellished beautiful and beaded as always. It was like watching the queen doing a meet and greet!
Everyone takes their seats and the show begins.unlike the past ‘one night only’ events, the fun stops here for me as the guests are invited to an intimate supper for approx 150 people.
A quick glass of champagne to commemerate this prestigious event with fellow team members and it’s time for bed!
Secretly I can’t wait to go back to my ‘Marilyn Monroe themed hotel (www.platinehotel.fr)!!! With my circular bed, red illuminated shower and lipstick loo. Someone should tell them the wall paper is upside down!
I was thrilled to work with a designer who had a very holistic approach and was very hands on! Kay knows exactly what he likes and gave great creative direction. When I arrived I had a rough idea about the flavour of the collection so I came prepared with my bag of tricks. The Kay Kwok man is extra ordinary, sleek and out of this world this season. He’s a super cool sci-fi guy.
The look for the makeup was very futuristic, beautifully glossy skin, brushed brows and a nude
eyeliner inside the lash line with curled lashes. I used Holographic glitter particles t
o embellish the collarbone, neck, cheekbone and temples. It was a very organic look and so ev
ery model was different. The same look was also created using black and emerald glitter, This mimicked the surface of an unknown planet and gave an illusion of a Mask at the same time. Glitter was brush flicked and poured all over the very patient and accommodating models.
We created a Glitter area to minimise the glitter “fall out” and to make sure we didn’t contaminate the two different colours Kay wanted. The impact was great on the runway and I’m pleased to say everyone was excited about the way the hair and makeup complemented the clothes.
Inca Productions were amazing and so organised in helping me get a couple of cleansing stations all lined up for the big clean up after the show, and providing us with the most delicious lunch too!
Kay Kwok is a real gentleman and a creative genius and definitely a man that is inspired by colour and the magic of makeup. I loved working with him.
Follow Maria on twitter here.
Flying to New York for three days seems like a lot of hard work… However working on a Giorgio Armani event is always an amazing experience and a true celebration of fashion so I didn’t think twice.
‘One night only in New York’ is another of Armani’s events that he regularly hosts all over the world. This time it was a showcase of his Privé (couture) shows to be held at the new SuperPier in the Meatpacking District.
Rather than replicating past makeup for the show, Mr. Armani always likes to have a new twist to anything he does. The look this time was fresh and natural so it totally compliments his eclectic Privé collections beautifully.
Linda Cantello who is Creative Director for Giorgio Armani Cosmetics created a look that fresh and modern. Didier Malige worked his magic with the models hair creating a soft knotted and twisted up do with a sweeping fringe.
Taupe eye shadow was washed under the eye and into the socket then softly blended. Giorgio Armani 12 kohl pencil was applied to the outer corners to accentuate the lash line. A specifically mixed stain was applied to the lips.
Embellishment, crystals, Asian & 30’s influences are just some of the elements that made up the show, with 75 models this was an epic extravaganza. Claps, whistles and cheers are heard from backstage as the show comes to an end… 40 minutes of pure genius. Mr. Armani takes his bow and the crowd roar, he comes back stage he applauds the teams…
Time to put my heels on transport myself to front of house where my hair is allowed to come down, so many recognisable faces so much champagne to be sipped. Mark Ronson on the decks (playlist available from Armani tweets) and I head for my comfort zone… the middle of the dance floor! Oblivious to what was going on around me (Bruce Webber for one) I danced my socks off till the lights came up! Then back to my achingly fashionable hotel dream downtown trying to brush off the man who wanted to take me for a tour if New York in his limo??? I mean seriously….
Follow Maria on twitter here.
|With fellow make-up artist Rafael Pita|
Linda Cantello heads the team…organisation is key and a solid team is paramount. Signor Armani is meticulous about detail and has to over see everything. Speaking Italian is a bonus as I am able to translate and convey to Linda what Mr Armani is feeling for the makeup“look” for the show.
The fittings go really well and we have decided on 2 looks for the show. The show is divided into 3 categories, Emporio/Giorgio and prive (couture) running time approx 30 mins it will be circular runway and the different sections will be blending into one another. Finishing with a live performance from Mary J Blige.
Very graphic eyeliner along the lash line, which had to be, applied at just the right angle & thickness! We had been out the previous day to source a product that would not smudge and would stay put for the long wait before the show. False eyelashes, which we also sourced, were also applied which exaggerated the lash line. Beneath the eye a less graphic & smokier line was added which had sections removed in the centre and the outer corner of the eye
Light shadows were applied to the eye area, almost emulating a western socket without it looking like makeup but more abstract. This wash was taken around the outside of the eye and down too the lower lashes a little black kohl pencil was also added to the inside of the corner of the eye to give depth. No masara, or contouring was needed & little if any lip balm was added.
Beijing /China is where it was at..the buzz is astounding and everyone was ready for this Armani extravaganza, including Tina Turner and so many other VIP guests. The stage becomes alive with a Beijing moving skyline projected onto it & the occasional garment detail or close up beauty shot for all to see. The haunting then thumping music starts and the models stride out in all their glory, things come to an end with a statuesque style traditional dance with a model wearing a green dragon gown. Mr Armani takes his bow…What an amazing thing to be a part of. Now Lets Party!!
It was my first time at this particular studio (MKII in Hackney),and working with the ever so lovely Lydia & Jens photographic duo. They have a really great approach to shooting and I felt they really portrayed the London streets where we were shooting in a very different way, making our urban landscape feel really new with fresh angles on architecture and things we take for granted like the regular corner store!
Jane the stylist made all the clothes look effortlessly blended and created some beautiful wearable looks.This story was mega; 25 pages of fashion could end up looking very ‘samey’ where makeup was concerned, so I made a huge effort to mix it up a bit and play with textures eye shapes and lashes. I cannot wait to work with this team again,It was a chilled but super fun day with stunning results! wouldnt you say?
Having already done the Jayne Pierson look book for the collection a week before I felt pretty relaxed about this show.
Jayne’s clothes are so beautiful, I was really touched to be asked back to do the makeup yet again with the backing of MAC cosmetics. We went off to Somerset House bustling with the fashionistas, celebrities, models and any other strangely dressed people that were hanging out (including a mini Cleopatra)?!
The look was really ethereal yet beautiful, the skin was slightly paled down and illuminized using lustre drops MAC “Pink Rebel” on the cheek bones and temples.
I used MAC “Pearl” Cream Colour Base on the brow bone and a sweep of MAC “Spite” Lipglass was used on the eyelids but no mascara.
The eyes were emphasised and accentuated by applying MAC “NW 15” Chromagraphic Pencil inside the waterline of the eye and MAC “Greyprint” Technakohl applied liberally under the eye in combination with MAC “Copperplate” Eyeshadow. This was really blended to create a natural shadow. Brow Set “Clear” was applied in an upwards motion to the brows to polish off the eye area.
The leading lady Bérénice Bejo, blew me away with her charm, wit and I loved her glamorous makeup. For those of you who fancy playing… this is my version of her look.
Skin should be slightly matt, use a foundation that suits your skin tone or go one shade lighter then lightly dust with loose powder (Chanel Poudre Universelle Libre is perfect for this).
Contour the brow and cheek bones with a pressed powder highlighter such as Mac iridescent Pressed powder.
|Sisley Phyto-Sourcils Eyebrow Pencil|
Then time to tackle the brows. To achieve this look you must be realistic, if your eyebrows are sparse it will look more authentic as you are able to recreate the thin pencilled brows easily.
However don’t let that put you off ! It works just as beautifully if you slightly mask the brows by lightly brushing some foundation through them with a mascara or brow brush. With a brow pencil, a tone slightly lighter than your natural brows delicately draw a thin line through your natural eyebrows & over your browbone, you can create whatever expression you like depending on the shape you draw, slightly arched is best so as not to appear to stern or angry!
For the eyes use a graphite grey or browny black close to the lashes and blend the eye shadow onto the lid to create a rainbow shape/hue of colour but keep it light as it’s all about the brow! Givenchy Eye & Brow Prism is perfect for this.
Lips should be kept quite dark (Sisley Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum or Chanel Rouge Allure in ‘La Faschinanante’ or ‘L’Exquise’) with a semi Matt lipstick for the best results but attention must be paid to the shape. Keep the cupids bow slightly pointed as lips were thin and angular around this time.
Then shine like the sparkly star you are!! Have fun with it.
After watching a week with Marilyn and being mesmerised by Michelle Williams‘ performance I felt compelled to talk you through the most iconic look in history!
The thing that really makes this look for me us not the lips though it’s the defined soft brow and taupe (‘not really there’) socket line.
Apply a micro thin liquid liner such as Dior Style Liner close to the lashes then apply black mascara on the outer corner of the lashes having curled them first with (my favourite are Shu Uemera) eyelash curlers!
Do not apply any mascara to bottom lashes. Contour the cheekbones with a Guerlain terracotta bronzer and there you have it!
As well as the nude matt lip, another variations on this could be a cherry lip-gloss such as the Chanel